Importance of energizer output in tall-grass

If the grass gets this tall, mow it! 

We all know that electric fence and grass contact don't go together all that well. The energizer sends the pulse through the fence, the grass leeches energy from the fence so that there is less energy when an animal touches the fence.

But overcoming grass contact is possible if a higher output (more joules) energizer is used. How does this work? By sending more energy through the fence than the grass can leech, you will have more available energy when animal contact is made to the fence.

If you're expecting significant grass contact (though not as much in the photo above) consider going with a higher output unit. Consult us (800-282-6631) if you have any questions.

Electric fence…what happens

What happens when grass touches energized fence wires?

Think of the wires as pressurized with excess electrons from the energizer's pulse. 

Green vegetation is a conductor—particularly when wet. When it contacts and energized wire, energy is pushed through the moisture in the stem into the soil. This is often called a "leak" (similar to a hole in a water hose) or a "short." 

In short—grass leaks electrons from the fence. However, if the energizer's pulse (joules output) is large enough, it can cope with the loss due to grass contact (overcoming weed-load). 

What happens when an animal touches the energized wires?

The high voltage of the pulse pushes electrons through the animal's point of contact (often nose or ears) then through the body's tissue and fluids and out through the feet/hooves/paws into the soil moisture. 

Is the animal's weight a factor?

The weight of a heavy animal compresses the soil. This reduces electrical resistance of the soil and increases the joules that can flow through the animal. 

This explains why heavy animals are more affected by electric fence and light animals less so. 

Weight (or the lack of it) explains in part why calves and lambs will seem to be less affected by a pulse than adult cows and ewes. 

Which species are most affected by an electric fence pulse?

In order from most to least: pigs, horses, cattle, canines (wet noses, bare pads) raccoons, sheep, goats, deer, geese, chickens and rabbits. 

This assumes a low-impedance energizer was used and adult animals are contacting the fence with their nose, beak or paw. 

What exactly is a fence energizer?

It is simply a box that takes in small amounts of electrical energy from an outside source (battery or 110v outlet).

The energizer pushes this energy from the outbound (positive, fence) terminal in very brief, high voltage and high amperage pulses, The ground terminal's (negative, earth) purpose is to absorb as much of the pulse energy as possible back into the energizer. 

An electric fence is the extension of these two terminals (fence and ground/earth).  

The inbound terminal is extended by driving metal rods (ground rods) into the soil and connecting them to the earth terminal with conductive wires to it. 

The outbound terminal is extended by attaching conductive wires to it. They are suspended above the soil and kept separate from the soil by insulators and/or nonconductive posts. 

Picking a fence and energizer combination—did I get everything right?

If picking out an energizer or roll of netting for the first time strikes you as a daunting task don't worry—it does not need to be tedious.

When visiting Premier's website—below the logo and slogan are a series of tabs, Sheep-Goats-Poultry-Horses-Garden/Wildlife-Deer-Cattle-Hogs/Pigs-Camelids. (Before we go any further, camelids is a one word way of saying llamas and alpacas.)

Tabs shown above. 

Select the relevant tab for your fencing needs—I'll select sheep. Go to the left hand column and click on Fencing.


Your fence options should now be shown. Since we're discussing netting, we'll focus on the temporary and semi-permanent options. The main differences being, how often do you intend to move the netting? Daily/weekly—choose temporary. Less often? Semi-permanent.

Fencing options for sheep (Semi-Permanent options not shown). 

From there you decide on Plus or Standard nets (post frequency), length, height, strut or string verticals and type of spike. Don't forget support posts for ends, corners and any major directional changes.

Now that you've chosen your fence, it's time to choose an energizer. Unless you already have one, in that case you're done!

Click back over to Fencing and select Energizers (DC, AC or Solar).
At the top of the results select energizer comparison chart. This will take you to a chart detailing all of Premier's energizers.

Click on the type of unit you need, AC (plug-in) or DC (battery or solar).

In the upper right corner you can again select the type of species you are fencing. Scroll right and you will find the number of nets each energizer can power. There is a range, (i.e. 2-5, 3-6) depending on energizer output in dry grass/soil conditions. If your soils are typically moist, go with the higher number and vice versa in dry conditions.

Energizer power source are the selections at the upper left. Species type is at the upper right. (Energizers can be used for multiple species.)

These options should help narrow down energizer and net choices. As always, if you have any questions give us a call at 1-800-282-6631 and we'll help you out.




Coming soon—advanced filters to help narrow down your netting and energizer selections.

Plug-in Energizer Tips

A HotShock 5 Plug-in energizer kit. Everything that is needed to operate a fence 100' from an outlet. 

How do you energize a fence if it is 100'± from an electrical outlet? Here is the kicker—you are unable to use a battery or solar energizer setup. Only plug-in.

For some, their first instinct is to use an extension cord from the outlet to the energizer. We do not recommend this option. There are a few reasons—

1. Safety. If an animal chews on the cord, that is a direct connection to 110v AC (much different than a pulse from an energizer). 
2. Extension cords are unable to provide consistent power (vary depending on the cord). Also—connecting multiple extension cords increases the overall resistance of the electrical circuit. The energizer may not receive the amount of energy it needs. 
3. For some energizers (mostly AC/DC units) the plug-in adapter (called a brick) is usually not weather resistant.  

What's the best option for energizing your fence? Run an insulated lead-out wire from your energizer to your fence. MaxiShock Double Insulated Cable or DCPIW34 is recommended to carry the pulse from the energizer to the fence. The cable can be buried or set along your yard. 

If burying the cable in a high traffic area (i.e. beneath a driveway) run the cable through conduit. This will significantly reduce the amount of pressure the cable experiences. 

If not buried and you need to mow:

• Turn off your energizer and disconnect the cable. 
• Gather the cable as you would rope to take it out of the mower's path. 
• Mow. 
• Unwind cable and reconnect to energizer. 
• Turn on the energizer. 
• Test fence. 

If you have any questions on using energizers or fencing please contact us at 800-282-6631 or info@premier1supplies.com.

Energizers: Plug-in, Battery or Solar

(left to right) Battery energizer, plug-in energizer and solar energizer. 

When choosing an energizer here is one very basic thing to keep in mind—is it going to be a battery, plug-in or solar energizer. Note: solar energizers are battery energizers with added bells and whistles. 

With that in mind, what are the differences between the two basic types?

Plug-in—power source is a 110v outlet. Permanently located. 

Battery—power source is a 12v battery. Easy to relocate. 

• A plug-in energizer is left in one location (usually close to an outlet). An insulated cable is used to carry the pulse from the energizer to the fence. 
• Battery energizers are typically set close to the fence and away from any convenient outlets. They draw off a 12v battery. The pulse travels through a short wiring harness to the fence. 
• Battery energizers cost more overall b/c of the need to purchase batteries and a battery charger. 

What about solar energizers?

Solar energizers are extremely convenient to use. Fences can be set up in the middle of nowhere. Depending on hours of usable sunlight, batteries rarely need recharging (but do keep an eye on them). 

The downside is the cost. The battery, panel, case, regulator (for high output panels) add to the price tag. That and if the sun doesn't shine for multiple days (the PRS units are sized for a 4-day reserve) the voltage on the fence will drop as the battery drops below a 40% charge). But for many convenience outweighs costs, hence why solar energizers are popular. 

Which to use?

If the energizer gets to stay in one place—we recommend plug-in energizers at every opportunity. No batteries + no reliance on sun = less hassle. 

If portability is needed, use a battery energizer. 

If portability with added convenience is desired, solar is best. 

If you have questions please call us at 800-282-6631 or email info@premier1supplies.com

What you need to know about ground rods

Make sure ground wires are firmly connected to the ground rod. 

Ground rods may seem to be just a trivial item. After all, they're just a metal rod you pound into the ground. They seem more of an anchor for the energizer than anything else. Don't be deceived by their unassuming demeanor, ground rods are vital.

How so? Try using an electric fence without the recommended amount of ground rod (3 ft per joule of output). For example, if using a PRS 100, an energizer with 1 joule of output, pull the ground rod out of the ground by a foot or two. Check the voltage of your fence (with a fence tester). Pound the rod back into the ground. Check the voltage again. See a difference?

We've established that it's important. Next, let's look into how an electric fence works. 

1. The energizer fence terminal sends an electric pulse through the fence's conductor(s). 
2. An animal touches the conductor. 
3. The pulse travels from the fence through the animal and into the ground. 
4. The pulse moves through the soil (via moisture) and to the ground rod. 
5. The pulse goes up through the ground rod and back to the energizer (via the ground rod). Completing the circuit (and the animal receives a shock, learning to stay away from the fence). 

Note: all of above happens in 1/10,000 of a second. 

So what does the ground rod do? It picks up the pulse from the ground and brings it back to the energizer. 

However, if the energizer has a stronger pulse than the rod can pick up, an electrical charge can build up around the rod. Since the full power of the pulse cannot travel through the ground rod, an animal will not receive a full powered shock. The remedy? Pour water around the ground rod to increase the conductivity around the ground rod(s), or add additional rods. 

Why is this ground rod so far out of the ground? It's likely because we are using a 1 joule energizer and a 6' ft ground. At 3' of rod needed per joule output, the full 6' is unnecessary. 

It is possible to test to see if your ground rod is not adequate. Ground out the fence—with the fence off, place a metal rod on the ground and lean it against the fence's conductors. This will cause a 'dead-short' to the ground. Using a digital voltmeter, stick the ground probe into the ground and touch the fence probe to the rod. If a reading of more than 300v appears, you need more ground rod. Under 300v, you have adequate grounding.

Connecting an energizer to its grounding system.

Troubleshooting electric fences

Check your fences as often.

Fences giving you headaches? Use the troubleshooting info below for determining whether your energizer or your fence is the cause. 

Is it the energizer or the fence that’s the problem?

1. To check—turn off the energizer.

2. Then disconnect the wires going to the fence and ground rod system. 

3. Turn the energizer back on.

4. Then measure the voltage between the 2 terminals (fence and earth) on the energizer with a digital fence voltmeter or other fence testing device (place the ground probe onto the “-” terminal and the fence probe onto the “+” terminal). 

5. If the tester reads less than 4000 volts, the energizer (or possibly the battery if it’s a battery energizer) is the problem. 

6. If the tester reads more than 4000 volts, the fence is the problem and the energizer is working properly.

If the energizer is at fault—

110 volt plug-in unit

1. Check that the 110v outlet is “live” with a test light.

2. If the test light works and the energizer does not, contact Premier (info@premier1supplies.com or 1-800-282-6631). We are happy to help and will act quickly.

DC battery unit

First determine whether it’s the battery or the energizer that’s not working.

1. If it’s a 12v energizer, carry it to a nearby vehicle. Attach the input cords carefully to the vehicle’s battery. 

2. If the energizer works, then the energizer’s battery needs to be recharged or replaced. 

3. If the energizer does not work when attached to a vehicle battery, then you should call Premier (1-800-282-6631) about the unit.

If the fence is at fault— 

How to find the fault(s)

Walk or ride along the fence looking for situations that are reducing the voltage. Re-attach the fence and ground wires to the energizer and turn it on. Check voltage. 

1. If you have a Fault Finder, use it. The arrow will tell you which direction the energy is flowing (leaking). Follow the fence from the energizer outward. Move in the direction of the arrow, testing as you go until you arrive at the problem. 

Note: Fault Finders can tell which section of net is at fault if you touch it to the clips where 2 nets join. But it is not able to locate the exact location within a net because energy flows in multiple directions within a net.

2. If you don’t have a Fault Finder (and do have a voltmeter or fence tester): Walk or drive along the fence. 

a. Netting—look for:

• Lowest live strand against the metal spike near the soil (photo below).

• Damaged strands that are touching the ground.

• Netting touching a wire fence or steel post.

b. HT wire and rope fences, look for:

• Damaged and broken insulators.

• Any point where an energized wire touches the soil, a steel or wood post or a nonenergized wire. Separate them.

• Branches lying on the fence and forcing wires together. Remove them. (HT wires will “spring” back, photo below.)

A fallen tree can be a real downer on your fence voltage. 

c. Listen for snapping sounds as you walk along a fence. These occur when a conductor is close to a grounded wire, stake and/or a large green weed or tree.

Use switches to turn power on/off to sections of fence. Useful for determining where the shorts are/aren't.

d. Separate the fence into parts by turning off switches (if it’s a permanent HT wire fence), or by disconnecting portions of electric netting. Then progressively reconnect it, checking voltage as you do so. When the voltage suddenly drops, you’ve found the area with the problem (the section you just connected or switched on).

Hope this helps you in determining your fencing issues.
For more fence help, check out the following links—
Pos/Neg Fence Tips
How to keep your solar units working

Quick tips for energizers
Dry soil tips for electric fences