Premier's visits Joel Salatin at Polyface Farm

During the weekend of July 19th, Sara McArtor (Premier Product Consultant) operated a booth at the Polyface Farm Field Day ran by Joel Salatin.

Sara with Joel Salatin during the show. 

Last week one of our field consultants, Sara McArtor took a trip to the Polyface Farm Field Day hosted by the Salatin Family of Swoope, VA.

The field day entailed discussions on producing beef, pork, chicken, rabbit and eggs on pasture based systems. There were also talks on composting, on-farm processing and direct to consumer marketing.

The event is held once every three years but if you're interested in the Salatin Farm, see www.polyfacefarms.com.

Demonstrating how to use and position a Premier PRS. Folks were able to register to win the PRS 50. 

The Premier booth is typically busy at shows, Polyface was no exception. 

A future farmer getting ready to peruse Premier's catalog. 

Sara demonstrating how to set up and take down netting. 

The lucky winner!

Testing at Premier

Day 1 of our marking crayon test on a group of wool ewes. 

We thought our pastures could benefit from a color other than 'lush green'. Instead of planting wildflowers, we took a more immediate approach and colored a few of our ewes with our marking crayons.

In truth, we're testing how long the marks will stay bright. We hand applied one color to 6 ewes (for a total of 36 ewes). We'll check and document color changes for 3-4 weeks.

We applied the marks in 80º weather, so we used 'hot' rated crayons. Though the purple used was a mild (it's a new shade of purple and we had only one sample on hand). The mild purple crayon applied much easier and left more of a mark than the hot crayon. That serves as a reminder to use the right type of crayon for the temperature, otherwise you will wear down crayons faster than necessary.

We'll post an update at the end of the experiment.

Note:
Crayons made for 3 average daily high temperature ranges:

• Cold: 25 - 65°F
• Mild: 65 - 85°F
• Hot: 85 - 100°F

What you need to know about ground rods

Make sure ground wires are firmly connected to the ground rod. 

Ground rods may seem to be just a trivial item. After all, they're just a metal rod you pound into the ground. They seem more of an anchor for the energizer than anything else. Don't be deceived by their unassuming demeanor, ground rods are vital.

How so? Try using an electric fence without the recommended amount of ground rod (3 ft per joule of output). For example, if using a PRS 100, an energizer with 1 joule of output, pull the ground rod out of the ground by a foot or two. Check the voltage of your fence (with a fence tester). Pound the rod back into the ground. Check the voltage again. See a difference?

We've established that it's important. Next, let's look into how an electric fence works. 

1. The energizer fence terminal sends an electric pulse through the fence's conductor(s). 
2. An animal touches the conductor. 
3. The pulse travels from the fence through the animal and into the ground. 
4. The pulse moves through the soil (via moisture) and to the ground rod. 
5. The pulse goes up through the ground rod and back to the energizer (via the ground rod). Completing the circuit (and the animal receives a shock, learning to stay away from the fence). 

Note: all of above happens in 1/10,000 of a second. 

So what does the ground rod do? It picks up the pulse from the ground and brings it back to the energizer. 

However, if the energizer has a stronger pulse than the rod can pick up, an electrical charge can build up around the rod. Since the full power of the pulse cannot travel through the ground rod, an animal will not receive a full powered shock. The remedy? Pour water around the ground rod to increase the conductivity around the ground rod(s), or add additional rods. 

Why is this ground rod so far out of the ground? It's likely because we are using a 1 joule energizer and a 6' ft ground. At 3' of rod needed per joule output, the full 6' is unnecessary. 

It is possible to test to see if your ground rod is not adequate. Ground out the fence—with the fence off, place a metal rod on the ground and lean it against the fence's conductors. This will cause a 'dead-short' to the ground. Using a digital voltmeter, stick the ground probe into the ground and touch the fence probe to the rod. If a reading of more than 300v appears, you need more ground rod. Under 300v, you have adequate grounding.

Connecting an energizer to its grounding system.

Pos/Neg fence tips

A normal electric fence consists of:

1. Wire(s) connected to the fence (positive) terminal of a fence energizer.
2. The soil’s moisture connected via metal ground (earth) stakes to the negative terminal of the fence energizer.

But the top soil moisture in many areas is too low to be a reliable conductor. In this situation, the animal may receive minimal pain even though a voltmeter touching a steel spike may register 3000 plus volts.

For these sites, one solution is to connect one or more wires in the fence to a second ground stake that is then ‘connected’ via subsoil moisture to the energizer’s ground stake. So some wires are now positive and some are negative—a Pos/Neg fence.

How does the animal receive a shock?

• On a normal all-positive electric fence, the animal completes the circuit by standing on moist soil (which is connected to the energizer via metal stakes) and touching a hot wire. The current flows down the wire through the animal’s point of contact with the wire to his feet (which are on the soil) and back through the soil moisture to the ground stake.
• With a Pos/Neg fence, the animal completes the circuit by touching a positive wire and a negative wire at the same time.

When is Pos/Neg wiring needed?

The simplest test is to look at the grass and soil. If the grass has been brown for 3 or more weeks and the top 3 inches of soil are very dry you need it. Second test is to lay the voltmeter’s probe on the dry ground (instead of sticking it in the soil or contacting a metal stake). If less than 2000 volts appear, revert to Pos/Neg wiring. A third test (not advised) is to wait until your animals escape.

Are some energizers better in dry soil situations with all positive fences than others?

IntelliShock & Kube units are superior – particularly the IntelliShock 31 & Kube 4000. They continue to deliver an animal stopping pulse long after traditional low-impedance units (HotShock, Patriot, and most other brands) have ceased to do so.

What energizers work for Pos/Neg fences?

All do. From a safety aspect, it’s actually best not to use too large a unit.

What are the negatives of Pos/Neg fences?

• Fences must be kept very clean. Any conductor (green weed stem or tree, metal post/wire) that touches 2 opposing wires will cause the pulse to drop from powerful to ineffective.
• An animal or person that remains in contact with both wires (positive and negative) could be killed. That’s why, in Premier’s view, offset metal hot wires should be installed high enough to allow human contact to be broken by gravity.

Common mistakes when operating clipping or shearing machines

Shearing and clipping can be a fun and enjoyable experience. It's always a surprise when peeling the fleece off a wool laden ewe and finding out how she really looks (hopefully it's a ewe in good condition).

However, if the equipment is having a fit, the ewe is kicking and bucking to get away while you're crouched over the ewe trying to hold her still while simultaneously adjusting the tension, it's not so fun.

Luckily it doesn't have to be that way. After reading the tips, tricks and hints below, the days of shearing a ewe and having the comb fall off should be long over. Don't worry, we also cover a few need-to-knows for clipping.

Clipping machine tips:

(left) The tension bolt that needs to be removed before changing blades. (right) Adjusting tension with the tension bolt.

• Take out the tension bolt before placing blades into the clipping head. This bolt is what holds the blades to the clipping head.


• Don't put on the bottom blade upside down. The polished side of the bottom blade (side with the name) needs to face away from the clipping head.


• To properly set the tension on the blades—turn the tension knob until fully compressed, then loosen two full turns.

Shearing machine tips:

Keep the tips of the cutter set behind the tips of the comb. 

• When setting up a comb and cutter, the tips of the cutter should not be even with the tips of the comb (unless using the Phantom S comb). Why? Most comb's tips are rounded. This means that if a comb and cutter's tips are even, the tips of the cutter have no surface to cut against. No cutting will occur. Refer to the manual for correctly setting comb lead. 


• Don't put a comb on upside down. The polished side of the comb (side with the name) needs to face away from the cutter. 


• Tighten down that comb! When you've painstaking placed the comb so the cutters sit just right, do not merely hand tighten the set screws. Use the comb screwdriver to tighten the screws. 

Tips for Tensioning:

There is no quick and easy way to tension blades or combs/cutters. The linked videos is immensely useful for setting up your combs/cutters.  

Oil - Oil - Oil!

Don't forget to frequently oil your blades, combs and cutters. Oiling cuts down on wear (the speed in which the equipment dulls) and heat buildup. 

Here comes the sun…

Well, the sun has been shining on southeast Iowa for a few weeks but after a week or so of rainy weather it's a welcome sight. Especially for the gardens. While the cornfields are racing to be knee high before the Fourth of July, our garden is taking its time to reach its zenith. Until then, we weed, mulch, plant, harvest (early season veggies) and generally tend the garden.

Fencing around the garden with a few FiberTuffs, VersaNet and a PRS. 

We also fence. The local raccoons, wood chucks, rabbits and deer are a problem. They like our garden as much as we do. Maybe even more so, as they often abscond with the whole plant rather than just a nibble or two.

For fences we have a few options. All of which can be found here.
VersaNet 20" or 30" is the best option for short ground based pests. It has tight spacings that can stop rabbits, ground hogs, raccoons and the neighbor's dog. For taller pests (deer) there are several 5'+ nets available to deter them from demolishing a garden.

If you have any questions, send us an email to info@premier1supplies.com or call us at 800-282-6631.

Solar Energizer FAQs

Using a solar energizer to subdivide a pasture with Cattle QuikFence. 

How do solar energizers compare to other fence energizers?

1. Their function is the same—a very brief high voltage pulse of energy.
2. Input source is a DC battery.
3. When the sun shines the solar panel recharges the battery—which eliminates the hassle of carrying the battery to/from a recharger.
4. They’re larger in physical size than 110 volt energizers—because of the solar panel, battery and case.

How do solar energizers differ from one another?

• Input needs (milliamperes per hr). 
• Pulse energy output (joules).
• Pulse rate per minute.
• Size of battery (in amp hours). 
• Size of solar panel (in watts & volts).
• Number of days the battery will last on its own without sunlight.
• Cost/joule of output and durability.

Energizing PoultryNet with a PRS 50.

What are the negatives of solar?

• Most expensive per joule of output.
• Usually lower pulse frequency than plug-in AC energizers.
• More maintenance including: 

1. Keeping the panel free of dust, snow and ice.
2. Keeping the panel fully exposed to the sun—unshaded by trees, grass, thick fence posts or buildings.
3. In winter the capacity of the battery goes down just when the amount of sunlight also goes down.

Solar energizers and electrified netting allow folks to easily graze hard to fence paddocks and pastures. 

Are solar energizers less expensive?

No. Plug-in units cost less because they don’t need a battery or a solar panel.

Are they less costly to operate?

No. The cheapest energizer to operate plugs into 110-volt AC current. 

Consider—a Kube 4000 provides 10 times more pulse energy than most farmstore solar units. Yet it uses less than 70 watts/day. That’s only $2.50 per year!

By comparison the battery in a typical farmstore solar fence energizer (1/10 the energy output of a Kube 4000) costs $24 and may need replacing every 2 years—an annual operating cost of $12.

If they cost more to buy—why are solar energizers so popular?

Because solar energizers are so easy to set up and use.

The steps are simple and few:

1. Place unit next to the fence. Face it south at a right angle to noon sun.
2. Clip the leadout wire (included in all PRS solar units) to the fence.
3. Clip the other leadout wire to a ground rod, nonrusted steel post or grounded fence wire.
4. Turn it on.
5. Check fence for proper voltage.

So how do Premier solar energizers differ from farmstore energizers?

Premier’s energizers have much higher pulse output—from .25 to 12 joules. Most farmstore solar units vary from .04 to .17 joules—enough to stop a mature horse or dairy cow but not enough for sheep, goats, poultry and wildlife or fences that will experience weed contact. 

1. We also offer “extreme” versions of PRS units for areas with less sunlight and/or colder temperatures—and we tell you where those areas are.
2. Larger solar panels and batteries.
3. Much lower cost per joule of output.
4. Stronger case that can either be placed on the soil (summer) or hung from a post (winter).

Fencing raccoons out of sweet corn with RaccoonNet. 

How do solar energizers cope with sunlight variations?

Some regions receive much less sunlight than others. And hours of sunlight vary from winter to summer.

The maps below depict the differing hours of solar “insolation” for a region in winter and summer. Solar insolation is the hours of sun available per average day that has sufficient intensity to enable a solar panel to charge a battery. 

Two very important things to note: 

1. The summer insolation hours (below) for all areas are much higher than winter hours. For southeast Iowa it’s 6 hours in summer and less than 3 in the winter. 
2. The hours available are very different depending on where you live. Michigan in summer has 5 hours vs 7.5 in Arizona! 

Then why is the same solar energizer sold in both Michigan and Arizona?  

It suits mass energizer suppliers to keep things simple. 

Yes, the panel and battery are too small for Michigan (except in mid-summer) and too large for Arizona (except mid-winter). That’s why many farmstore solar energizers often fail in the winter. 

And it’s probable that the extra sunlight in the Southwest will damage the battery in the summer by overcharging it.

What powers a solar energizer at night and on cloudy days?

A DC battery. They all have one inside the case. The battery must be large enough to supply the energizer for several sunless days.

Summer vs Winter sunlight

The maps above indicate the hours of summer and winter sunlight available per average day that have sufficient intensity to enable a 12v solar panel to recharge a 12v battery (defined as the hours of solar “insolation”).

Winter Sunlight (hrs)

Summer Sunlight (hrs)

Why is this important? 

• Because a solar energizer with the right panel and battery size for New England may overcharge a battery in Arizona unless it’s equipped with a voltage regulator. We feel that all solar panels above 15 watts should be equipped with a regulator. Overcharging destroys batteries unless a regulator is used (costly for “off-the-shelf” units so it’s rarely included).
• Solar panels that are right for Arizona are too small for Vermont—thus reducing battery life by undercharging.
• And a solar panel sized for summer usage may be too small for winter. Putting it simply, the same solar unit cannot fit all situations. That’s why solar farmstore energizers disappoint users so often. 

In the winter months—a PRS should be close to vertical to keep it perpendicular to the sun's rays at 12 noon. 

During the summer—a PRS should be slightly tilted toward the south to catch available sunlight. We prop one edge on top of the ground rod.