What exactly is a fence energizer?

It is simply a box that takes in small amounts of electrical energy from an outside source (battery or 110v outlet).

The energizer pushes this energy from the outbound (positive, fence) terminal in very brief, high voltage and high amperage pulses, The ground terminal's (negative, earth) purpose is to absorb as much of the pulse energy as possible back into the energizer. 

An electric fence is the extension of these two terminals (fence and ground/earth).  

The inbound terminal is extended by driving metal rods (ground rods) into the soil and connecting them to the earth terminal with conductive wires to it. 

The outbound terminal is extended by attaching conductive wires to it. They are suspended above the soil and kept separate from the soil by insulators and/or nonconductive posts. 

How an electric fence works

Well, how does an electric fence work?

1. The fence energizer sends an electric pulse through its positive terminal to the fence. 
2. The fence then carries this pulse until an animal comes in contact with the fence. 
3. The pulse travels through the animal and into the soil/ground. 
4. The pulse is then absorbed from the soil back into the energizer via the ground rod system. 

So where do the terms joules, voltage and ohms come into play?

• Joules is the volume of electrical energy in a pulse (think gallons, pints etc. in water systems). 
• Voltage is the measure of pressure upon the pulse to move from A to B (similar to PSI in air and water systems).
• Ohms is the resistance to electrical flow (constrictions in these systems). Higher ohms reduce the felt pulse.   

Points to consider:
For a fence to be effective, we suggest a minimum of 3000 volts. This means the fence needs to have reasonable high pressure (voltage). But that's just half of it. The other half being the size of the pulse, which is measured in joules (read as released, not stored, on fence energizers).

High pressure (volts) behind a large pulse (joules) results in a deterring shock when the fence is touched by an animal. The smaller the joule (output) the smaller the potential shock and vice versa. Also, the lower the voltage the smaller the felt pulse.

If bigger is better (or so it seems), why do we recommend .5 joule units?
For fences with low resistance (ohms) and have high voltage (at least 3000v), a .5 joule energizer is enough to deter animals. Longer fences with more resistance need more joules in order for pulse to be felt. 

Fall Grazing Tips

This sight will be common within days. 

Think of each blade of grass as a solar panel. The panel charges the plant's growth. In fall, with less light available for growth, grass needs more ​surface​ ​area​, than summer months, for the same regrowth—if the amount of moisture remains a constant. Gordon S. (Premier consultant and raises 200+ ewes on grass) prefers to move when grass length is 4" (a good practice to use in general). 

This leaves the plant enough solar collection ability to regrow without drawing from its roots (drawing via the roots reduces available energy for spring growth). 

Also consider fencing off shaded areas. While essential during summer months, they attract heavy traffic which leads to bare, barren dirt (not good). 

Solutions:

• Increase rotation speed (i.e. less time in one area). Less time grazing (one location) = more grass available for collecting sunlight. 
• If an area is already overgrazed, fence it off. Same practice for shaded areas—if it's cool, fence off the trees.

For fencing out of the way areas, consider using a solar fence energizer. 

In either case, we use netting to accomplish this. It is quick to install and easy to move. Fall rains bring soft soils so nets with double-spikes are preferred by many (though we find single-spike just as effective on our farm). Though if we graze later into the season, nets with drivable posts (DP) would be advised (hard/frozen soils). 

Picking a fence and energizer combination—did I get everything right?

If picking out an energizer or roll of netting for the first time strikes you as a daunting task don't worry—it does not need to be tedious.

When visiting Premier's website—below the logo and slogan are a series of tabs, Sheep-Goats-Poultry-Horses-Garden/Wildlife-Deer-Cattle-Hogs/Pigs-Camelids. (Before we go any further, camelids is a one word way of saying llamas and alpacas.)

Tabs shown above. 

Select the relevant tab for your fencing needs—I'll select sheep. Go to the left hand column and click on Fencing.


Your fence options should now be shown. Since we're discussing netting, we'll focus on the temporary and semi-permanent options. The main differences being, how often do you intend to move the netting? Daily/weekly—choose temporary. Less often? Semi-permanent.

Fencing options for sheep (Semi-Permanent options not shown). 

From there you decide on Plus or Standard nets (post frequency), length, height, strut or string verticals and type of spike. Don't forget support posts for ends, corners and any major directional changes.

Now that you've chosen your fence, it's time to choose an energizer. Unless you already have one, in that case you're done!

Click back over to Fencing and select Energizers (DC, AC or Solar).
At the top of the results select energizer comparison chart. This will take you to a chart detailing all of Premier's energizers.

Click on the type of unit you need, AC (plug-in) or DC (battery or solar).

In the upper right corner you can again select the type of species you are fencing. Scroll right and you will find the number of nets each energizer can power. There is a range, (i.e. 2-5, 3-6) depending on energizer output in dry grass/soil conditions. If your soils are typically moist, go with the higher number and vice versa in dry conditions.

Energizer power source are the selections at the upper left. Species type is at the upper right. (Energizers can be used for multiple species.)

These options should help narrow down energizer and net choices. As always, if you have any questions give us a call at 1-800-282-6631 and we'll help you out.




Coming soon—advanced filters to help narrow down your netting and energizer selections.

Introducing PRS-I and PRS-B energizers

This Spring Premier added several new units to its PRS Energizer line-up. These units offer some of the same features of the original PRS line-up but with added enhancements.

Details…

• Output 0.5 or 0.25 joule. 
• Same UV treated, high-impact plastic outer case but the energizer inside varies in joules of output and energy use/hr.
• Include a backup battery charger.
• Have an easy-access on/off button.
• On/off button shows up very well at night (flashes green or red depending on battery charge level).
• Have an overcharge regulator to protect the battery.
• Can be placed on the ground or on the top of steel T posts.
• Include wires and clips to connect to the fence and the ground rod. 
• Larger batteries (in amp-hr) than competing units of similar output.

PRS-I vs PRS-B?

A “PRS-B” (for “Basic“) unit removes a steady 50 milliamperes per hour from the battery—which in turn must be recharged by the solar panel.

“PRS-I” units (for “Intelligent”) are able to reduce their energy demand when the fence’s voltage is high—due to few weeds touching the fence. 

This occurs in fall and winter for most fences and occurs all year for some horse, cattle and deer fences.

So an “I” unit’s battery is more likely to remain charged through the low sunlight days of autumn and winter.

0.25 vs 0.5 Joule?

0.25 joules will work for a roll of sheep netting or a strand of “weed-free” rope. It’s also enough for most cattle and horse temporary fences. Will work with a roll of PoultryNet or VersaNet but grass must be mowed or sprayed as needed to maintain adequate voltage. 

For multiple rolls of net we advise 0.5 joule units or larger.

Below is a video of setting up a new PRS for in-field use. If you have any questions give us a call at 1-800-282-6631 or visit our website at www.premier1supplies.com.

Spring Fence Checklist

You're ready for spring. Your animals are ready for spring. Your pastures are ready for spring. But are your fences ready for spring? Before you set your flock or herd loose onto pastures that haven't seen use for a few months, make sure the fences are ready to keep livestock in and everything else out.

Walk the fence line(s). Check for branches or trees that may have toppled during a winter windstorm. If needed, clear branches and trees off of your fence and assess its condition. Most HT fences can bounce back after heavy branches have been removed. Other fences may need some more involved care. If the fence is in a flood prone area, remove any downed trees/limbs that could be washed into the fence.

Make sure all conductors are intact. If needed, mend with repair kits, ropelinks, twistlinks or gripples.

Check plug-in and battery energizers before use—the fence must be adequately electrified. For battery energizers, make sure the batteries are fully charged before bringing them to the field.

If using a PRS, this video details how to bring it out of winter storage and get it ready for spring fencing.

For more informational posts, click on the links below:

Before you buy or build a fence
Troubleshooting electric fences
Tips for setting up netting successfully
Netting: Struts or Strings
Netting: single spike or double spike posts?
Netting Tips

What you need to know about ground rods

Make sure ground wires are firmly connected to the ground rod. 

Ground rods may seem to be just a trivial item. After all, they're just a metal rod you pound into the ground. They seem more of an anchor for the energizer than anything else. Don't be deceived by their unassuming demeanor, ground rods are vital.

How so? Try using an electric fence without the recommended amount of ground rod (3 ft per joule of output). For example, if using a PRS 100, an energizer with 1 joule of output, pull the ground rod out of the ground by a foot or two. Check the voltage of your fence (with a fence tester). Pound the rod back into the ground. Check the voltage again. See a difference?

We've established that it's important. Next, let's look into how an electric fence works. 

1. The energizer fence terminal sends an electric pulse through the fence's conductor(s). 
2. An animal touches the conductor. 
3. The pulse travels from the fence through the animal and into the ground. 
4. The pulse moves through the soil (via moisture) and to the ground rod. 
5. The pulse goes up through the ground rod and back to the energizer (via the ground rod). Completing the circuit (and the animal receives a shock, learning to stay away from the fence). 

Note: all of above happens in 1/10,000 of a second. 

So what does the ground rod do? It picks up the pulse from the ground and brings it back to the energizer. 

However, if the energizer has a stronger pulse than the rod can pick up, an electrical charge can build up around the rod. Since the full power of the pulse cannot travel through the ground rod, an animal will not receive a full powered shock. The remedy? Pour water around the ground rod to increase the conductivity around the ground rod(s), or add additional rods. 

Why is this ground rod so far out of the ground? It's likely because we are using a 1 joule energizer and a 6' ft ground. At 3' of rod needed per joule output, the full 6' is unnecessary. 

It is possible to test to see if your ground rod is not adequate. Ground out the fence—with the fence off, place a metal rod on the ground and lean it against the fence's conductors. This will cause a 'dead-short' to the ground. Using a digital voltmeter, stick the ground probe into the ground and touch the fence probe to the rod. If a reading of more than 300v appears, you need more ground rod. Under 300v, you have adequate grounding.

Connecting an energizer to its grounding system.